Edward Daniel Clarke's first impression of the Don Cossacks in the 18th Century

There is something extremely martial, and even intimidating, in the first appearance of a Cossack. His dignified and majestic look; his tall elevated brows and dark mustaches; his tall helmet of black wool, terminated by a crimson sack, with its plume, laced festoon, and white cockade; his upright posture; and ease and elegance of his gait—give him an air of great importance. We found them in considerable number at Kasankaia, lounging about their houses, and conversing in such large parties, that it seemed as if we were entering their capital. Their dresses were much richer than any thing we had seen in Russia, although all Wore uniforms. Each pers0n’s habit consisted of a blue jacket, edged with gold, and lined with silk, fastened by hooks across the chest. Beneath the jacket appeared a silk waiscoat, the lower part of which was concealed by a sash. Large and long trowsers, either of the same material as the jacket, or of white dimity, kept remark ably clean, were fastened high above the waist, and covered their boots. The sabre is not worn except on horseback, on a journey, or in war. In its place is substituted a switch or cane, with an ivory head, which every Cossack bears in his hand, as an appendage of his dress ; being at all times prepared to mount his horse at a moment’s notice. Their cap or helmet is the most beautiful part of their costume, because it is becoming to every set of features. It adds considerably to their height: and gives, with the addition of whiskers, a military air to the most insignificant figure. They wear their hair short round the head, but not thin upon the crown. It is generally dark, thick, and quite straight. The cap is covered by a very soft and shining black wool. Some of them have civil and military distinctions of habit—-wearing in time of peace, instead of the jacket, a long frock without buttons. The sash is sometimes yellow, green, or red, though generally black; and they wear large military gloves. There is no nation in the world more neat with regard to dress: and, whether young or old, it seems to become them all. A quiet life seems quite unsuited to their disposition. They loiter about, having no employment to interest them; and passionately fond of war, seem distressed by the indolence of peace. The ataman, or chief of the stanitza, approached us with very great respect and complaisance, as soon as we arrived. Notice at the same time was given to all the inhabitants not to quit the town without his knowledge, until every thing the travelers might require was ascertained and provided. He begged to conduct us to quarters, as he expressed it; and brought us for that purpose to his own house, which he gave up entirely to our use. It was pleasantly situated above the Don, with an open covered arcade, or wooden gallery, in which we breakfasted and dined, while we staid. His cave of provisions was in the courtyard; and he made his wife and daughter open it for our use. I had the curiosity to descend into this place. It was floored with ice, upon which I ob served sterlet, and other fishes of the Don, with game and other luxuries. The house was perfectly clean and comfortable, so much so, that we could not resist the pressing invitation made to us of remaining a short time, to study the manners of the Cossacks, in a. town nearly as large as their capital. It was amusing to observe the temporary respect they paid the ataman. If he convened any of the inhabitants on business, however trivial, they made their obeisance before him, standing bare headed as in the presence of a sovereign: but the moment the assembly was dissolved, he passed unheeded among them, receiving no other mark of respect than any other Cossacks. It is an office, to which the election is annual; but if an ataman is particularly popular, he may retain his station, by re-election, during many years. I believe this does not often happen. Our host was in his first year, and his predecessors had been generally changed when the time arrived. We soon perceived that the Cossacks were a people characterized by great liveliness and animation: little is posed to industrious occupation, but fond of amusement, and violent if their passions are roused. In their dances, drinking songs, and discussions, they betray great vehemence. They have abundance of excellent food, and as much brandy as they may think proper to drink. It is therefore surprising that order is so well maintained in their stanitzas. However indisposed a traveler may be to listen to those false alarms which the inhabitants of every country raise in the minds of strangers who wish to explore any remote part of their territory, it is not possible at all times to disregard such relations, especially when they come from persons of the highest authority, and who pretend to accurate knowledge of the facts they pretend to substantiate. In Russia, there was not an individual of any respectability with whom we con versed upon the subject of our journey, who did not Endeavour to persuade us from the danger of traversing what they termed “ the deserts of the Don Cossacks.” It ended, as such accounts generally do, in misrepresentation, and absurdity. Among the Russians, indeed, we were constantly exposed to danger, either from imposition, which it was hazardous to detect, or from insult which it was fearful to resent; and in both cases the consequences affected our security. The very earliest view of the Cossacks showed us a brave, generous, and hospitable people. If we questioned them concerning the dangers of the country, we were referred to districts tenanted by wandering Camucks ; yet we afterward found no cause of reasonable alarm, even in the very camps of that singular race of men. At Paulovskoy, they told us that the emperor’s courier had been stopped with the mail. We doubted the fact in the first instance; and then concluded that if the mail had really been stolen, the theft was committed by the Russians who raised the clamor, and not by the Cossacks, to whom the blame had been imputed. In war, the Russians found them a desperate and dangerous enemy; and many a bitter remembrance of chastisement and defeat induces them to vilify a people whom they fear. The Cossacks are justified in acting towards the Russians as they have uniformly done; that is, in withdrawing as much as possible from all communion with a race of men, whose associations might corrupt, but never advance, the interests of their society. After these remarks, it must nevertheless be confessed that we were compelled to take an escort through the Cossack territory, and to place a guard over our carriage at night; precautions, doubtless, often calculated to excite the ridicule of the people among whom we travelled ; yet even the Cossacks themselves urged their necessity, “on account,” they said, “of the Calmucks.”